20th October 2017
food manchester grafene
I've visited Grafene several times since it's opened. I've had dinner alone and with friends, and I've sampled the tasting menu a few times, so I do have quite a bit of affection for this place. The menu changes quite regularly; I look forward to visiting.
The bread was very accomplished, with the cheese and onion roll being particularly good, served with a nice whipped butter, made in house. Their sourdough was dense and crusty but nothing hugely special.
The starter of plaice with bacon and potato was not as heavy as it may sound, ideal for a starter, and the shellfish mayonaisse a nice flavour. The fish was beautifully cooked, with the pickled cockles on top providing a little sharpness.
The main course of beef fillet was superb. The beef was pink, firm and dense, served topped with oxtail ravioli, which was bursting with earthiness and hints of red-wine stew. It was plated on a very tasty savoury snail bourgignon which complemented the beef. The little sweet bursts of onion added to the dish.
This is the type of dish I’m starting to expect from Grafene, with depth and flavour, and very satisfying. It actually reminded me of a very nice veal dish they served on a previous visit (now sadly absent from the menu).
The service was fast and not overbearing, and the front of house staff very welcoming as always.
Lunch was £35 with sparkling water.